It’s up to you though, sometimes the look is worth risking a few scratches. Try to avoid really sharp objects (such as sharp glass, and sand) as they can scratch the acrylic disk over time. The best part of the new kit is that you can always open your disk back up and add or remove items. Things like metallic sequins block the light and look like black specs – look for glass and plastic beads, iridescent clear sequins, bits of art glass etc. Oh, and make sure the black velvet mat board faces INSIDE towards the mirrors.įocus on using transparent objects as this will let the most light in and look the most exciting. The assembly is the same, the final triangle is just narrower once you complete it. NOTE: The wand style kaleidoscope has only two mirrors and a black velvet mat board piece for the bottom instead – this is what creates the mandala effect that works best with the narrower wand view. I have marked the wrong side with an X to help you out, but if you peel too early or for some reason I miss one use the notes below to determine the correct side. Once you know which side is the correct side there is not need to check the other side, just mark the “wrong side” or peel the masking form that side. Using a pencil (or similar) gently peel back a corner of the masking on each mirror and check them. The front surface mirror side needs to face INWARD. The first step is to determine which is the good side, and which is the wrong side. You want to avoid scratching the mirrors. Take your time with this step and do not remove the film until the last second. This shouldn’t be necessary, but it’s up to you and a sanding block is now included with your kit! If desired you can lightly sand any of the pieces you feel are not smooth enough. You can color this white birch wood with just about anything – watercolor, markers, colored pencils, fabric dye, etc. In the example below I used Folkart Ultra Dye which is a non-toxic water-based dye/stain. Remove the masking from all of the wooden parts and paint, stain, or bedazzle as desired. The tolerances are tight so they’re designed to minimize the use of glue and the parts will not fit with the masking on. * Do not force-fit the pieces without removing the masking. For example some people may choose to spray paint the slats in a color (maybe gold?) so instead of dark lines you have bright colored ones when you peel it!
The masking protects the kit in transit and also allows you to paint the engraved part first if you decide. If your engraved design is intricate you can use a plastic razor blade or very sticky tape to pull it off. Your pieces should be covered in masking which you will need to remove. You may notice the piece I am showing has some scorch marks on it – I didn’t mask every part of this as this is a prototype/sample. You can choose to decorate your kaleidoscope before or after assembly. This guide should still cover 99% of what you need, but if you have questions about something in your kit that looks different and you cannot figure it out please let me know and I’ll help! You can watch the older video for your kit here as well! Some people were having difficulty getting the glue in the right spots and so I adjusted some parts to completely eliminate the need for glue.
If so be SPARING with the super glue you have in your kit or use a different glue you have on hand so it doesn’t damage the acrylic disk or lens. You might have a thinner disk that needs to be glued closed or an eyepiece and magnifying lens that also needs to be glued. Wait, My Kit Looks Different? If you purchased a kit before 2022 you may have some slightly different parts. i recommend scrolling through the whole tutorial before assembling, there are a few important things you need to keep in mind – specifically remembering to peel everything before assembly. For further tips please watch the video as well. I will try and keep them as simple, and straightforward as possible. These are the instructions for constructing my Kaleidoscope Kit.
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